Thanks Brian! And best holiday wishes to you and to everyone here at SRL!
Hereís what Iím hoping will be the final update. Iíd like to be able to include this one in my 2017 builds. The ďlong pole in the tentĒ right now is that Iím waiting on a 4-cylinder distributor cap for the Wico magneto Iím modeling, as explained below. Other than that everything is pretty much wrapped and requiring a pretty simple and quick final assembly.
It turns out that I was totally wrong when it came to mounting a 30ís style magneto (the big brands of the time were Eisemann, Wico, Edison, and Bosch) to a Ford B-block 4-cylinder. Itís true that on a lot of farm equipment, tractors and stationary motors they were driven off the flywheel, but in 4-stroke applications they were either stepped down to half speed (for example on John Deere tractors), or in low-stress applications like stationary pumps the magneto simply allowed to fire on the exhaust stroke. But in racing 4-banger Ford applications the magnetos were invariably driven off the cam drive so that they ran at half speed. This was usually accomplished using some sort of adapter. In the summary composite picture which follows Iíve included a photo of an Eisemann magneto in a lakes modified with the magneto driven by a short quill shaft off an adapter case. A water pump is mounted to the front of the same casing.
In any case this created a problem for me because, as youíll see below, I had already created a Wico Magnetos decal and applied 2 of them to the painted and finished body. The placement helps balance things out graphically, and besides I wasnít inclined to risk marring the paint by removing them. So Iíve taken the long way around by changing the magneto mounting position. Since I had reshaped the molded-in AMT starter motor into a Wico-shaped lump this meant cutting out said lump and replacing it with a proper starter motor. Fortunately I was able to accomplish this fairly cleanly and it turned out that one of the countless small-block Ford V8 starter motors from one of the equally countless Revell í32 Ford kit leftovers in my parts box fit perfectly. The result is in the second panel of the summary picture below.
On the other side of the block I fabricated a quill shaft drive from some mysterious piece I found in a Revell í30 Ford Tudor Rat Rod kit and various styrene bits. I positioned it on the other side of the oil feed tube in order to preserve that detail. This is further back than in the Eisemann installation and required a longer quill shaft. Itís all painted and installed and simply waiting for the 4-cylinder distributor cap from Morgan Automotive Detail, which Iíll reshape slightly and glue in place. Then I can wire and plum the motor and stick it in the chassis, followed by final assembly.
The last image in the summary picture below is a view of the undercarriage. The AMT í29 Ford Model A Roadster kits have a really nicely detailed floor panel. Itís typical of the great job they did on the stock Model A part of the original double kit, paired with the Ala Kart. Frankly, in working on this project I once again have been reminded why, in many ways, I prefer the AMT kit for my hot rods over the recent Revell kit, as nice as the Revell roadster is. Because the AMT kit is essentially a stocker kit the hot rod modelling experience is more like building a 1:1 Ė big fun in my opinionÖ In any case, I cut out the floor panels from the stock fender assembly and fabricated some small styrene panels to fill the gaps between the panels and the edges of the body. The result is shown below along with the finished chassis, which is straight out of the box with stock front and rear suspension..
As I said, all the decals and bodywork are completed. The windshield was removed, leaving the stock bracketry and dashboard in place. The interior was also finished, again essentially stock out of the kit. The side panel and seat are finished in a distressed leather effect done by applying multiple thin coats of Testors Acryl paint (the shade is, oddly enough, Leather) and then brushing it in a diagonal cross hatch pattern as each coat dries. Then a light coat of black wash is applied and lightly removed with a piece of tissue to highlight the distressing.
The picture below shows the completed decal application and the completed interior:
Thatís it for now. Fingers crossed that the distributor cap gets here this year, LOL!
Thanx for lookiní,